I had expected the mint tea. (I’m a big fan of a cocktail that incorporates it, L’Aventura Punch.) I had not been prepared for khunjul. But given Marrakesh’s centuries of history as a stop ...

My mostly-dry December happened because my sister, Molly, and I took a long-planned trip through Morocco, going from Rabat to the Western Sahara, passing through the Atlas Mountains and ending in ...